Setting Up a New Shower Unit
An effective shower setup needs careful preparation and a lot of work. In most cases, you will need to do three types of jobs: framing walls, setting up the plumbing, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you should select the kind of shower that you wish to install. It is essential to determine whether the picked shower can coping with specific systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower units nowadays are designed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as saved warm water and cold mains).
It is also important drain blocked and smelly to take into consideration the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be linked to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed through the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and very easy to set up. However, although the hose pipe connection is basic, it is quickly dislodged. Additionally, it is troublesome to adjust the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The tube and spray of this kind of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a very inexpensive option and no extra pipes is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers likewise struggle with bothersome temperature control choices.
Manual Mixer: The pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water supplies are linked to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more costly showers). Although temperature control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the previously pointed out mixers. They also need additional plumbing of cold and hot supply of water pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The pipe and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the cold and hot water supplies are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to avoid it from ending up being too hot. One of the most significant benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of convenient temperature control. However, it is the most costly of the various mixer options.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system including a powerful electric pump that can changing both the water pressure and temperature level. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated up directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is essential to keep in mind that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system permits the temperature and pressure to be adjusted through a knob. Models with temperature level stabilisers are better as they stay untouched by other taps in other places in usage within the home. A significant drawback of electrical showers is that the control knob only allows for the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is bothersome in the winter season when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is chillier. However, this problem is tackled in some models which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Depending on the type of shower you want to install, the shower head must either be fitted in order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it should have a check valve.
Before starting, it is suggested to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. Additionally, the drain system to remove the waste water will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable route and the shower switch will also require to be thought about if an immediate or electrical shower system is being installed.
Use the instruction guide supplied with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to the shower system, it is necessary to cut off the water supply. In order to safeguard the pipes, they must be provided a waterproof covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water system and test the pipes for any leakages, as some may need tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have actually been made (there need to be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a higher height (often just 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden assistance underneath it-- potentially composed of struts and blockboards. If you pick this option, the main and distribution pipes will also need to be raised to satisfy the brand-new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it should be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to utilize 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the go to the shower as short and straight as possible so as to maintain optimal pressure and reduce heat loss. In addition, by reducing using elbows for pipeline corners, you can reduce the resistance in the flow of the water supply. You can achieve this by bending the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Violating or neglecting local code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipelines that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when installing them.
# Not setting up an air gap filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall remains in place.
# Not correctly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outdoors pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air cloggeed drain vic from the lines. This particles can cause problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.